When we were children, I remember going to the beach with my cousins Ismail Rafeeq and Ibrahim Rameez. Ismail used to carry a wooden surfboard made out of the timber of a pumpkin tree. I accompanied them to Dhadimago Fanno Beach, located on the northwestern side of our island, Fuuvahmula.
Ismail would wait in the middle of the reef flat for the wave swash that would form when the breaking waves struck the reef front’s impact zone. In order to propel his surfboard, he would be ready for the waves’ swash. The wave swash carried him a distance of approximately 25 to 50 feet. The reef in the reef flat was shallow, and we were also too small to wade or swim through the reef flat. It was exciting to surf and feel the intensity of the waves that crashed around us.
Dhigifeeshi Fanno is known for its mysterious waves. There are extremely powerful crashing waves on the reef front. And the waves here are bigger than elsewhere on the island. Various types of waves constantly batter Fuvahmulah. The southern end of Fuvahmulah is home to the most mysterious waves. Here, one can witness various wave types, including surges and crashing waves.
Thoondu Beach’s waves are similar to those seen at the island’s southern end. However, at the southern end, there is a reef flat that gradually slopes down to the open sea, and waves come in from a long distance. Thoondu is the only place in the Maldives where waves break on the beach. The waves crash at different angles at the southern end of the island and on Thoondu Beach.
We also engaged in something daring and exciting. We purposefully encountered powerful waves when their amplitude was at its highest or stay vertical at the face of the wave. We call this moment ‘elei e jesun’. Almost all of the boys in our age group engaged in this exciting adventure, or our signature “sport,” of the sea.
To experience this thrilling adventure, we usually go to our island’s Neregando beach and Thoondu beach. We jumped into the fore reef at Neregando Beach, where large waves break. At this location, waves ranging in height from 3 to 10 feet can be seen breaking on the impact zone at the reef front.
I would like to define some terms used in this daring activity before delving into the details. According to the linguist Fathuhullah Salih, ‘elei’ in our dialect refers to a big wave. The boys who saw the big waves called out “Eleyi”, or “Eleyi beyre”, which is a phrase used to let those in the water know that the waves were breaking. If the waves were too big, we might not attempt to reach the maximum amplitude of the wave, and instead we just call out ‘eleyi beyre bondey’ (a massive wave is about to break).
Swells can be seen approximately 50 to 200 feet away on the sea from the forereef area. The swells turned into waves of various sizes. Before the waves broke, we had to swim towards the forming waves to stay vertical when the wave’s amplitude or elevation reached its peak. When many of us were successful in getting inside the wave, four or five boys could normally be seen on the wave’s face or shoulder as we made our way to the beach in a large group.
If we successfully reach the maximum elevation of the wave, our arms will be visible coming out of the wave crest. Technically, anyone who reaches this point will be noticeable almost vertically inside the wave, portraying a ‘silhouette’ of us. This was the most exhilarating experience we had while we engaged in this activity. Some boys were so fearless that they managed to get inside huge waves.
We usually avoid huge waves that are too big to engage in or even swim through. We dive under them when we are about 10 feet away from the approaching wave, allowing us enough time to get under it. We normally dive about four feet under the wave, swim forward as far as we can, and emerge on the other side. Diving under these big waves entails not just ducking under them but submerging our entire body and navigating beneath them until they pass. Unpredictable waves break and hit us.
This was a strenuous activity that lasted for hours. The maximum elevation of the waves at Thoondu Beach is closer than at Neregando Beach, making it easier to enjoy the waves. But those who were unsuccessful had terrible luck: the breaking waves pounded the boys onto the sandy beach. Many of us had inflicted injuries, particularly in the waters of Thuondu. These are some of our childhood activities that will remain in our memories forever. Although current surfing techniques and sports have triumphed, these deadly and daring attempts remain legendary sports that we have mastered.
